gaggia classic pro pid install
I might even have the original box. Here are some pictures of the Lego enclosure: https://www.reddit.com/r/espresso/comments/owpfe7/i_made_a_lego_enclosure_for_rex_c100_pid/. Your machine would bottom out at 122C with the offset before power cycling again, which sounds more in line with much better steaming pressure. That is indeed not normal. What you describe is pretty normal, except that I am a bit surprised that your steam drops temperature down to 102. Ive set the Sn value to pt for the PT100. Im wondering if this could somehow be the outcome of a bad SSR: Im not seeing current flow between the two AC terminals of the SSR when the PID is attempting to heat the boiler to the Set Temp. Mechanical Rocker Switches I used the same controller ( XMT 7100 ) which Mr Shades is selling. I am not surprised, Mr Shades runs an honest business, and those parts are being offered at low prices. About 60cm of FLRY 1.5mm2 cable to connect the SSR to the Gaggia4. If not, can you think of any potential mistakes I made along the way? Replacing that wire= everything works perfectly now! Double check that this is the neutral! I have a similar model, C100-Fk02-V*AN. Hi peeps, finally got all the bits n pieces to do the Pid, brew & steam mod on the gaggia, does anybody have any general instructions for putting this all together? I have a 2013 Gaggia Classic. Does this happen even if you let the machine sit in steam mode and dont open the steam valve?. Glad this writeup helped. Opciones de compra y productos Add-on . Im assuming it should be fine as well to use 18 awg wire to wire the mains connections to the PID, and between the heating element and the SSR? Im on [emailprotected] When set up on my bench it tucks away nicely in behind out of sight and only needs to come out when in use. I can actually taste the sweetness for the first time. Hi Chris, I completed the whole project both for brewing for PID and steaming via alarm. Thanks again for all your support. You could approach this two ways. From: 100,00 . I cant see how this wouldnt be a thermostat problem, unless you somehow wired the steam thermostat into the PID, but you would have gone way beyond this walkthrough to do that. Hi Jimmy. Hi Chris, i noticed you used the K type thermocouple with the M4. I am guessing that its caused by the current draw of the boiler heater. I then thought what if? and decided to change the mains wires to the opposite terminals. Let me know your thoughts !!! Some people have done this by replacing the water filler funnel and 3D printing a replacement cover. I drilled pilot holes for all the screws because my 3D printer has problems printing holes that small. I know the numbering labels on mine didnt make much sense, and you will also notice in the picture in this article that even the polarity order between the SSR terminals and the thermocouple terminals are mirrored. Wear a glove when reaching in from below, otherwise bloodletting is likely. I figured a video about this could be of interest to you, so here's the link: Hi Paul. A couple of zip ties come in handy here. I used to get this phenomenon with the original temperature control, but much less so, and I just used to run some water through the machine (using it to warm the shot glass and the portafilter especially if I hadnt had the machine warm up for very long) before pulling a shot. I can do a more detailed writeup of what Ive done if anyone feels like helping me find out whats not working properly! The PID switches the power to the boiler heating element on and off a lot more frequently than the original mechanical thermostat. This would explain the constant switching on and off. Others have managed to also install the PID horizontally and cut out a hole in the side of the GC, but that still requires replacing the water filler funnel. I decided to go the do-it-yourself route, ordering the parts separately, at a fraction of the cost of the kits. Power supply : 90-265V AC/DC Do you think this makes a difference? Mods for post 2018 - Gaggia Classic Pro / Gaggia Classic 2019 espresso machines View products Mods for pre 2018 - "Original" Gaggia Classic espresso machines View products sign up But it will require some dismantling of the work you have done. Im using a calibrated FLUKE 51II digital thermometer and a K-type thermocouple to measure temp. Hi David. Main Output: SSR: Open circuit: 4V, Closed Circuit: 24V40mA DC auber pid kit gaggia classic. The C100 is probably made by dozens of different manufacturers. If you had to recommend a single display PID, which one would you steer me to? What you describe looks very much like the steam thermostat cycle. Gaggia Classic Pro + Shades of Coffee PID Controller Review & First Impressions TMB - The Majestic Bean Channel / Home Barista 7.11K subscribers Subscribe 41K views 2 years ago It's here,. Have you written an article regarding installing a Gaggiuino mod? You can use the same 18 gauge wire between the heating element and the SSR. Maybe this could serve instead of trying to find an M4 thermocouple. Heres a picture of the screws I used, with screwdriver for scale: Great article and development, congrats! shades uses 2 connecting one ssr thru the other for steam. Im running into problems and I dont know if my REX-C100s starting values are the problem or if its my deviation with the wiring: Regardless of the temperature that i set on my PID, toggling the Gaggia on causes it to climb to 150-160C and then slowly decline to 118-125C, at which time it will heat up again. Does anybody have a Shades of Coffee pdf for the brew and steam setup on the gaggia classic, mines a 1998 classic coffee model, it would be much appreciated. It heats up to 93 +-1c and then goes down as soon as i hit the switch brew. and I didnt work straight through, but I would say the PID took me about 2 hours, not counting the down time due to the crossed power wires. I cant see why you couldnt. Thoughts & musings from a product developer and manager. Ill try to get a new thermostat from a reputable place, see if that solves the problem, and if it remains then something else in the machine is wrong. If you go for a PID, you need to use a thermocouple. If the brand or source is questionable, I would recommend derating the current by a factor of 2 or 3 and going for a model rated for 25-40A just to be safe. While the steam switch is engaged, the PID serves to provide a temperature reading of the boiler, which is great, because you can use that temperature reading to time when to start steaming for maximum steam performance. Before replacing the thermostat, maybe check whether your PID and thermocouple are calibrated, before committing to buying more parts. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. To set the target temperature, press the 'Set' button on the front of the panel. The connector is on the back of the machine, where mains power is tapped with a piggyback connector and goes to the PID. Or do you think the same set will work with QB-T7100? The C-100 will fit in vertically, with the screen facing up. It looks like your GC is in steam mode. I attached the thermocouple using a spade connector to a spare pin on top of the boiler block. Spent some time playing with temps and pulling a lot of shots to dial it in and am very happy with the results. Also the PID starts with Auto Tuning disabled in my case, so had to be reset. For the Gaggia Classic, taking into account the temperature drop between the boiler and the group head (5-8 degrees C), the PID target temperature should be set to about 103 degrees C or 220 degrees F at sea level. Use Git or checkout with SVN using the web URL. 1 / 9. I checked that the PID was able to correctly read a temperature from the thermocouple, and turn on and off the solid state relay depending on the temperature reading. Tags Slim PID Holder for Gaggia Classic Design to 3D. The 103 is not a true 103, that is what is getting measured in the boiler wall, and there is also a temperature drop off between the boiler and the portafilter, so your final espresso temperature will be lower. Im so thankful for this. Thanks. Glad you got that sorted out. Hi Eddie. I should pointed out that the temperature ranges I was referring to were with the -8C offset on the PID. If you have never done this before, know that you are working with live household current, and this can kill you. Gaggia classic pro PID question. 15,00 . My problem is that since installing the mod, my machine gets way too hot and boils. Do you know of any shops that can do this install or maybe you would be interested in working on my machine? The coffee water temperature in the boiler of a home espresso machine is originally controlled by a bi-metal thermostat, which causes a big temperature swing. From what I have read, the PID with the additional steam mode option does not improve things much. Just got delivery of my 2003 model and waiting on the c-100 and thermocouple. Did you reverse any wires to the steam switch? You're welcome to wire your PID however you like but make sure to change any pin numbers in the code to reflect how you've assembeled the circuit. I also cleaned the part of the group head that that gasket sits in. Bliss. Mains is house current. This approach would give you a somewhat unique machine that has a factory thermostat-controlled brew mode, and a PID-controlled steam mode. I recently installed the PID kit mentioned above however, the water coming out of my group head is substantially lower than my SV (currently set at 200F, reading 165-170F at the group head). They are easy to unlock to get to all of the other settings, there are plenty of instructions on how to do this out there, but I didnt really need to go there. I stumbled onto this before I actually had my Gaggia in hand and went about ordering all the parts. Test that everything is working before closing the machine back up. Your email address will not be published. . Hey Chris, I think Mr Shades has managed to do this using only cables because I dont think he instructs anything to void the warranty. Leave as much of the thermal grease in place as possible. My next thought was that the controller wasnt reading the correct temperature. So far the temp range Ive seen when the heater cycles on/off (after ~30 mins of warming up) is ~90C to ~97C. Sure enough, it powered up. Please make sure you've downloaded them prior to uploading the code to your Arduino of choice. This is not a difficult mod. Gaggia Classic Pro PID kit components and summary 2,765 views Jun 4, 2021 30 Dislike Share Save Murat ztrk 65 subscribers In this video you can find information about the Gaggia Classic Pro. The same can be done with the REX C100 but you need one with all 8 screw terminals (the second SSR for steam uses the alarm function which needs terminals #6 and #7) and these two are missing on some REXs. Supposed to be faster in detecting temperature changes and more accurate with the measurement. I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. Note that according to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UETVv0qgz-w, you can switch the C-100 between Celsius and Fahrenheit. If nothing happens, download Xcode and try again. About 60cm of 1mm2 (17AWG) cable to deliver power from the Gaggia to the PID 3. I had to manually enable autotuning on my REX-C100 and i dont know if other values are screwed up or if its something else, since it really does seem like the boiler is getting power in bypass of whatever the PID is doing. Brass is soft and easy to drill, and all the adapter needs to do is provide a connection between the thermocouple and the boiler, so there would be no hard in doing this. Plug in a mains-rated wire connected to a piggyback spade connector, and then plug the original neutral cable into the piggyback. That is confusing. I also think that you may have less difficulty reaching the thermostat, the 2019+ models have a lot less room to spare inside. Thanks in advance! Which one shall we buy? Where did you place the SSR? It has worked without issue so far, and maybe thats bound to happen to the plastic as current goes through and it gets old, but would love to hear other opinions. (I believe it is currently on 5) Or shall I just keep it as it is, showing DC 100V when I turn the switch on? Hi Jun. The image I used is wrong and confusing, and I have now updated it. From what you describe, it looks the power wires for your PID are possibly tapped in-line with the boiler power? if a brew alone can do it with some limit to prevent steam from blowing thermal fuse that maybe interesting and simple. The thermocouple should be snug but not too tight as the threads are not super robust. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8yPwJcEPDi1c5tfY7 I have installed the supply cable for PID unit using piggyback spade connectors. Thank you again for taking the time to write up such a great guide. May I have your help about finding out which ones I should get from Shades? If you really want these features, its probably time to think about upgrading your machine. I printed everything using Inland PLA+ filament. Gaggia Classic Pro/2019 complete wires and controller PID kit - 1/32DIN. Most thermocouple calibration articles that I have read use ice water to calibrate to zero degrees C because the boiling point of water varies with altitude. The two mains wires connect to terminals 1 and 2 (starting counter-clockwise from top-left). Perfect, came back here to ask this question! Can the PID be put inside the machine or does size constraints and/or heat negate that option? I found that moving the boiler up and to the side allowed me to get to the thermostat from the bottom really easily vs. the top. + $55.24 shipping. I have a 2005 GC with a Mr Shades PID kit installed. Other than that mine was a fairly straightforward procedure with no trouble at all. The thermocouple connects to terminals 6 and 7. Set the maximum PID output to that which will maintain the boiler housing temperature at boiler housing temperature setpoint over an extended period of time. Maybe Im missing something? it does not matter if the bean is dark or light roast? So I would say yes, you should use a heat sink, but the Gaggia body conveniently provides you with that function. I am only using the Rex temporarily while working on a project with a Raspberry Pi (and the cost of the Rex was only a couple dollars when ordering the SSR), otherwise I would reprint the entire enclosure with the hooks built in. I do not suggest autotuning for this device because there is a huge improvement in temperature stability if you do the tuning by yourself. My plan is to install the Rex C100 first using your instructions. I currently have a Gaggia Classic (non-PID mod) and a Eureka Mignon Crono w/ espresso burrs. Hit the switch brew thermostat, maybe check whether your PID are possibly tapped in-line with the.... 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If the bean is dark or light roast that you are working live... You have never done this by replacing the water filler funnel and 3D printing a replacement cover ( after mins. Before, know that you are working with live household current, and a Eureka Mignon Crono espresso! The Lego enclosure: https: //www.youtube.com/watch? v=UETVv0qgz-w, you should use a thermocouple probably to... Not suggest autotuning for this device because there is a huge improvement temperature! Is a huge improvement in temperature stability if you had to recommend a single PID.
